The Value of Vacation

The nation-wide shut down correlates almost exactly with Group 6's six month anniversary of arriving in Swaziland. After six months we're well o our way to adjusting, settlign into routines, and this is starting to actually feel like our lives again. The edge wearing off coupled with the cgloom of the holidays away from home in addition to the lack of work mean it's time for vacation.
PCVs vacation hard. For us (at least for some) travel is not to get out and experience a new local culture and more what Africa has to offer. It is for a change of scenery and to grasp some of the things we sorely miss. In Maputo, we didn't go to museums, local markets, or cultural shows. Rather, we h ung out at the malle, saw a movie (Nim's Island. . . not that great), went to several coffee shops (and a juice bar!), showered three times a day, and ate a ton of seafood.
Soem might be disappointed in me when I say that I spent more time with Afrikaners than Mozambiquans. Partially because there aren't too many locals in hostels, but also because I miss speaking English at a native level. I miss being sarcastic, I miss being able to not take my work home with me. On vacation we get to take a break from the fish-bowl effect. In Moxambique I could order a drink from a bar and not have to worry about my host family, my community, and the PC office hearing about it. I h ad conversations where no one asked me to marry them, give them money, or find them a job. I had conversations where no one cares that I was white. It was glorious.
We did try the local cuisine, and it was delicious. But we also spent a couple nights havign pizza or just cheese and crackers. Certainly, we weren't looking to avoid local culture. But we've had a big dose of culture these past months and we're not looking to be good travelers or even laid-back tourists. For me, this trip was about being my authentic, Western, non-working self, in a beautiful country away from the prying eyes of my Swazi friends and family.

Swazi shut down

December and January are difficult months here in the Swaz. Between Christmas, New yYear, and Incwala (a traditional celebration) the whole country is more or less shut down. Schools and government offices close and it seems as though the limited private industries look on in the envy and think "Eh, let's pack it in too." For the average PCV this is excruciating. The pace of life here could already be described as painful, but the holiday season can be downright mind-numbing. Especially since the bulk of my time has been spent with the schools, I've been out of luck. Along with my boredom I've also been jealously listening to my fellow voluinteers talking about their clinic work. My community doesn't have a clinic. the nearest medical facility is Njanini, which doesn't need me, seeing as a married set of volunteers lives next door. However, a nearby volunteer named Amanda left early (we miss her) and has left a relatively close clinic without a volunteer. Am I above poaching my friend's turf? Of course not.

Enough of my whining

Despite this year being an incredibly lackluster Christmas, it was definitely the greatest December 26th on record. I got to go swimming. Cheesy though it may sound, there is some part of my soul that is just immensely satisfied by water (thus the whole swim team, sailing, boating instructor trend) and that has been sorely lacking these past 6 months. I am writing this from Maputo, the awesome and exciting capital of Mozambique, and Maputo is a port on the Indian Ocean. I am spending the holiday in Moz with 7 saucy ladies from Swaziland Group 6. We're chilling in backpackers' hostels (note the spelling, Mom), trying new food, and resurrecting our high school Spanish in order to communicate in Portugese-speaking Mozambiquans.
But back to the water. . .yesterday we took a ferry to the more scenic part of Maputo Bay. And we went swimming. Being born and bred in the northwest, the concept of warm ocean is quite mind-boggling. But it's out there, and it's awesome. All I need now is a sailboat and a cure for HIV/AIDS and I'll be sublimely satisfied

Holiday Blues

I'm afraid I can't sugar-coat this. Christmas in Swaziland is awful. It's not as big a holiday as in the United States so there's a definite lack of Christmas cheer. It's also summer here so it's around 100 degrees here nearly everyday (no A/C) which is pretty miserable. Most of the country is shut down for Christmas, New Year's, and the traditional holiday, Incwala, so there's no work for us to do. The hardest part though, is being away from home. The thought of my family opening presents and eating crab without me is heartbreaking. Honestly, I'm getting a little teary just writing this. Listening to Christmas carols on my ipod alone in my hut made things worse, so I've been coping by pretending it's not really December.
To celebrate (and alleviate our misery) a group of about 8 of us are heading to Mozambique for the holiday. We're going to lie on the beach, hang out on an island, eat some delicious seafood, and make it through this difficult time.
Wishing you all a Merry Christmas from Swaziland.

Moving up in the world

Outside of Mbabane and Manzini there's not much in the way of cities here. Because transport is so expensive, if you live in the Shiselweni region (I do!) then you don't get to town very often. Those of us that live in the south are stuck w/ Nhlangano. Swaziland's third-largest city, "the Schlong" in PC vernacular, is nothing to write home about (except that I am). There is no great selection of South African chains, to laundromat, and no real internet cafe. Even the grocery store is lack-luster. However, in the past few weeks the Schlong has been improving. It began with the opening of a new Jet (a South African clothing store). Now, a KFC branch will be opening next week. All we need now is a decent Indian restaurant and we'll never need to go to Manzini again!

What wouldn't I do for a klondike bar?

It seems to be a characteristic of PC-Swaziland that volunteers spend an inordinate amount of time thinking about food. We're constantly planning our next meals, or which rare treats we will enjoy during our next trip to town. One of the great things about Peace Corps is that your standards have never been lower. In the states, I would never have been excited about ice cream from Kentucky Fried Chicken (the lone American fast food chain). But in Swaziland? It's the highlight of my week. American treats like Thai food, nachos, parmesan cheese, apple cider, root beer, proper dognuts, and decent sea food don't exist here (to prove my point: I'm writing this in the volunteer lounge at the PC office and asked for suggestions of foods they miss. It was an avalanche). I like to plan what my first meal will be when I return to the United States.

Clam chowder, crusty bread, and a cold Henry Weinhard's root beer. Followed by a hot fudge and caramel sundae w/ brownie bits.

Rockin' in the Swaz

I walk, run, or shamefully dance in my hut approximately 4 hours each day. Since my ipod only has so much memory, this means there's a great deal of musical repitition. Here's a sample:

Beth's Top 10 Most Listened to Albums

1) Indigo Girls - Become You

Folk classic. Excellent to sing along to while cooking eggs.

2) Beck - Guero

A good boogie tune for the hut or the bus.

3) Amy Ray - Stag

Sure, it's a little angry, but it feels so nice after being proposed to 18 times in one day.

4) Switchfoot - Beautiful Letdown

An awesome Christian boy band. Good music to think to.

5) Matchbox 20 - More Than You Think

My buddy from Zim loves this one.

6) Loretta Lynn - Van Lear Ros

There's a great song about Oregon.

7) Miley Cyrus - Meet Miley Cyrus

I know, I'm ashamed, but I just can't help it.

8) Nickel Creek - Reasons Why

It's soothing, and I like to pretend that I'm a lighthouse.

9) Death Cab for Cutie - Plans

Benjamin Gibbard is just so easy to sing along with.

10) Bryan Adams - Reckless

It reminds me of Camp Pinecliffe.