Despite this year being an incredibly lackluster Christmas, it was definitely the greatest December 26th on record. I got to go swimming. Cheesy though it may sound, there is some part of my soul that is just immensely satisfied by water (thus the whole swim team, sailing, boating instructor trend) and that has been sorely lacking these past 6 months. I am writing this from Maputo, the awesome and exciting capital of Mozambique, and Maputo is a port on the Indian Ocean. I am spending the holiday in Moz with 7 saucy ladies from Swaziland Group 6. We're chilling in backpackers' hostels (note the spelling, Mom), trying new food, and resurrecting our high school Spanish in order to communicate in Portugese-speaking Mozambiquans.
But back to the water. . .yesterday we took a ferry to the more scenic part of Maputo Bay. And we went swimming. Being born and bred in the northwest, the concept of warm ocean is quite mind-boggling. But it's out there, and it's awesome. All I need now is a sailboat and a cure for HIV/AIDS and I'll be sublimely satisfied
Saturday, December 27, 2008
Tuesday, December 23, 2008
Holiday Blues
I'm afraid I can't sugar-coat this. Christmas in Swaziland is awful. It's not as big a holiday as in the United States so there's a definite lack of Christmas cheer. It's also summer here so it's around 100 degrees here nearly everyday (no A/C) which is pretty miserable. Most of the country is shut down for Christmas, New Year's, and the traditional holiday, Incwala, so there's no work for us to do. The hardest part though, is being away from home. The thought of my family opening presents and eating crab without me is heartbreaking. Honestly, I'm getting a little teary just writing this. Listening to Christmas carols on my ipod alone in my hut made things worse, so I've been coping by pretending it's not really December.
To celebrate (and alleviate our misery) a group of about 8 of us are heading to Mozambique for the holiday. We're going to lie on the beach, hang out on an island, eat some delicious seafood, and make it through this difficult time.
Wishing you all a Merry Christmas from Swaziland.
To celebrate (and alleviate our misery) a group of about 8 of us are heading to Mozambique for the holiday. We're going to lie on the beach, hang out on an island, eat some delicious seafood, and make it through this difficult time.
Wishing you all a Merry Christmas from Swaziland.
Tuesday, December 2, 2008
Moving up in the world
Outside of Mbabane and Manzini there's not much in the way of cities here. Because transport is so expensive, if you live in the Shiselweni region (I do!) then you don't get to town very often. Those of us that live in the south are stuck w/ Nhlangano. Swaziland's third-largest city, "the Schlong" in PC vernacular, is nothing to write home about (except that I am). There is no great selection of South African chains, to laundromat, and no real internet cafe. Even the grocery store is lack-luster. However, in the past few weeks the Schlong has been improving. It began with the opening of a new Jet (a South African clothing store). Now, a KFC branch will be opening next week. All we need now is a decent Indian restaurant and we'll never need to go to Manzini again!
What wouldn't I do for a klondike bar?
It seems to be a characteristic of PC-Swaziland that volunteers spend an inordinate amount of time thinking about food. We're constantly planning our next meals, or which rare treats we will enjoy during our next trip to town. One of the great things about Peace Corps is that your standards have never been lower. In the states, I would never have been excited about ice cream from Kentucky Fried Chicken (the lone American fast food chain). But in Swaziland? It's the highlight of my week. American treats like Thai food, nachos, parmesan cheese, apple cider, root beer, proper dognuts, and decent sea food don't exist here (to prove my point: I'm writing this in the volunteer lounge at the PC office and asked for suggestions of foods they miss. It was an avalanche). I like to plan what my first meal will be when I return to the United States.
Clam chowder, crusty bread, and a cold Henry Weinhard's root beer. Followed by a hot fudge and caramel sundae w/ brownie bits.
Clam chowder, crusty bread, and a cold Henry Weinhard's root beer. Followed by a hot fudge and caramel sundae w/ brownie bits.
Rockin' in the Swaz
I walk, run, or shamefully dance in my hut approximately 4 hours each day. Since my ipod only has so much memory, this means there's a great deal of musical repitition. Here's a sample:
Beth's Top 10 Most Listened to Albums
1) Indigo Girls - Become You
Folk classic. Excellent to sing along to while cooking eggs.
2) Beck - Guero
A good boogie tune for the hut or the bus.
3) Amy Ray - Stag
Sure, it's a little angry, but it feels so nice after being proposed to 18 times in one day.
4) Switchfoot - Beautiful Letdown
An awesome Christian boy band. Good music to think to.
5) Matchbox 20 - More Than You Think
My buddy from Zim loves this one.
6) Loretta Lynn - Van Lear Ros
There's a great song about Oregon.
7) Miley Cyrus - Meet Miley Cyrus
I know, I'm ashamed, but I just can't help it.
8) Nickel Creek - Reasons Why
It's soothing, and I like to pretend that I'm a lighthouse.
9) Death Cab for Cutie - Plans
Benjamin Gibbard is just so easy to sing along with.
10) Bryan Adams - Reckless
It reminds me of Camp Pinecliffe.
Beth's Top 10 Most Listened to Albums
1) Indigo Girls - Become You
Folk classic. Excellent to sing along to while cooking eggs.
2) Beck - Guero
A good boogie tune for the hut or the bus.
3) Amy Ray - Stag
Sure, it's a little angry, but it feels so nice after being proposed to 18 times in one day.
4) Switchfoot - Beautiful Letdown
An awesome Christian boy band. Good music to think to.
5) Matchbox 20 - More Than You Think
My buddy from Zim loves this one.
6) Loretta Lynn - Van Lear Ros
There's a great song about Oregon.
7) Miley Cyrus - Meet Miley Cyrus
I know, I'm ashamed, but I just can't help it.
8) Nickel Creek - Reasons Why
It's soothing, and I like to pretend that I'm a lighthouse.
9) Death Cab for Cutie - Plans
Benjamin Gibbard is just so easy to sing along with.
10) Bryan Adams - Reckless
It reminds me of Camp Pinecliffe.
Friday, November 21, 2008
Uptown Girl
I have never been a very lady-like sort of girl. Until I donated my hair to Locks of Love prior to my service, I had been rocking a basic, waist-length hair style for the better part of a decade. I do not own any make-up, and I didn't even shave my legs. I was convinced that Swaziland would makes this lack of decor significantly worse. Strangely, it has had the opposite effect. We live a pretty scruffy lifestyle. With all the dirt and grease I find myself trying anything just to feel a little bit pretty.
So I am writing this with a new haircut (courtesy of a fellow PCV) complete with layers and bangs. My legs are shaved and I even have garish pink polish on my toes. Viva Swaziland.
So I am writing this with a new haircut (courtesy of a fellow PCV) complete with layers and bangs. My legs are shaved and I even have garish pink polish on my toes. Viva Swaziland.
Ode To My Vermin
living in Africa comes with its natural hazards. There are black mambas and puff adders. I even saw a lion the other day while the bus was passing a safari park. It was a little disconcerting because the fence was so low, even I could've jumped it. Despite these exciting animal adventures, it is the less charismatic animals that really affect the day to day life of a PCV. Bats, rats, and cockroaches (oh my) have become part of our daily routine, as well as the object of some unfortunate creative outlets.
Dawn breaks and homestead animals call,
cattle, pigs, chicken, geese and goats.
The very worst creature of all,
is the rat that poops in my Jungle Oats.*
Out of bed, I go with a light,
he sits on the floor and gloats.
My personal terror of the night,
the rat that poops in my Jungle Oats.
Breakfast time, I discover the turd,
on top of the box it floats.
So early, this seems absurd,
the rat that poops in my Jungle Oats.
*Jungle Oats are South Africa's answer to Quaker Oats.
Dawn breaks and homestead animals call,
cattle, pigs, chicken, geese and goats.
The very worst creature of all,
is the rat that poops in my Jungle Oats.*
Out of bed, I go with a light,
he sits on the floor and gloats.
My personal terror of the night,
the rat that poops in my Jungle Oats.
Breakfast time, I discover the turd,
on top of the box it floats.
So early, this seems absurd,
the rat that poops in my Jungle Oats.
*Jungle Oats are South Africa's answer to Quaker Oats.
So, does she work?
Amid my charming anecdotes about avocadoes and my popularity as a marriage prospect, it might appear to some that I am not actually working. It is high time to offer an explanation. After Pre-Service training the first 3 months at site are spent "integrating," that is, getting to know your community and assess their development needs.
Group 6 is just finishing a week-long In-Service Training (IST), and once we get back to site we are ready to start our mission. Most of us have already begun small projects though (ssshhh. . .don't tell the Peace Corps).
So what do I do, exactly? I teach English and Life Skills at the high school as well as trying to start a computer club. Once I return to Phobane I'm hoping to work w/ the local HIV/AIDS support group, begin an income-generating project, and help impove food security for the 100+ AIDS orphans and vulnerable children (OVCs). Let the real work begin!
Group 6 is just finishing a week-long In-Service Training (IST), and once we get back to site we are ready to start our mission. Most of us have already begun small projects though (ssshhh. . .don't tell the Peace Corps).
So what do I do, exactly? I teach English and Life Skills at the high school as well as trying to start a computer club. Once I return to Phobane I'm hoping to work w/ the local HIV/AIDS support group, begin an income-generating project, and help impove food security for the 100+ AIDS orphans and vulnerable children (OVCs). Let the real work begin!
Bodice-rippers: the global language
I have a deep love for books with titles such as "Taming the Scotsman" or "The Sinful Nights of Nobleman." This makes me easy fodder for all sorts of jokes from my fellow PCVs. Despite their ridicule more than one of them has come to me when they think no one is watching asking to borrow "Hard Day's Knight." Of course, they'll never admit to it in public.
One of the greatest challenges in a foreign country is making meaningful friends across cultural lines. Romance novels are the quickest and easiest way to accomplish this. That's right: smut is not an American phenomenon, women the world over love to read about washboard abs.
While waiting in the faculty lounge of my local high school I was passing time by reading "Conquest Bride." One of the other teachers came up to me and announced that she too was an ardent fan of such novels. She immediately offered up a trade: her Danielle Steele collection for anything I had, so long as it wasn't historical. A most excellent mutually beneficial relationship.
One of the greatest challenges in a foreign country is making meaningful friends across cultural lines. Romance novels are the quickest and easiest way to accomplish this. That's right: smut is not an American phenomenon, women the world over love to read about washboard abs.
While waiting in the faculty lounge of my local high school I was passing time by reading "Conquest Bride." One of the other teachers came up to me and announced that she too was an ardent fan of such novels. She immediately offered up a trade: her Danielle Steele collection for anything I had, so long as it wasn't historical. A most excellent mutually beneficial relationship.
Sunday, November 16, 2008
Grocery shopping, Swazi-style
Innocently walking home from the high school last Wednesday with my host sister we were summoned to a homestead to greet the family. This happens fairly often. A white person cruising through rural Swaziland is extremely rare, so people want to know what on Earth I'm doing there. They ask basic questions, What's my name, Where do I live, Where am I from, What am I supposed to be doing, and How do I like Swaziland. They also frequently ask how I like the Swazi food. The women that summoned me last week were very curious about my food preference. Lindiwe, my host-sister, told them that I ate a lot of peaches and avocadoes. As we got up to leave, the women handed me 2 bags. One had 6 peaches, the other had 11 avocadoes (these are Swazi avocadoes, which are almost the size of my head, not dinky ones imported from Chile). Nearly 30 rand worth of produce, an extremely generous gift
I'll be eating guacamole for a month. Now all I need are some nachos. . . Alas.
I'll be eating guacamole for a month. Now all I need are some nachos. . . Alas.
Expat Elections
In honor of the recent presidential election nearly every Peace Corps volunteer in Swaziland journeyed to Mbabane to be w/ fellow Americans. Group 6 rented out a backpacker's hostile . Because of the time difference election night became an all night party. We ordered pizza, made red and blue pancakes, and used lots of American slang.
Swazis are huge Obama fans. I've been asked several times who I'd be voting for. Most Swazis responded by asking me why I'd support Senator Obama. They thought that my being white was an automatic vote for John McCain. The Swazi Times predicted a win for Obama nearly a week in advance, based on opinion polls of Swazi locals.
Living abroad has given me a new love and respect for the American democracy. It was moving to be a part of that process, even on the other side of the world. It seemed as if PC Swaziland unanimously supported Barack Obama (if anyone voted Republican, they were too afraid to say). One of the highlights of the evening was spending it with Americans from all parts of the country. If your home state went blue then you had to stand up while everyone applauded. If you home state went red, you'd get a pat on the back and group condolences. Barack Obama was declared the winner at 6 in the morning. We were especially amused by his mention of Americans around the world tuning in, even if they were huddled around a third-world short-wave radio. Admittedly, we were huddled around a third-world satellite TV w/ CNN.
The next day another volunteer and I were walking back to the bus rank when a car pulled up next to us w/ the window rolled down. Bracing ourselves for a marriage proposal we looked over. The driver simply waved and yelled "Yay Obama!"
Swazis are huge Obama fans. I've been asked several times who I'd be voting for. Most Swazis responded by asking me why I'd support Senator Obama. They thought that my being white was an automatic vote for John McCain. The Swazi Times predicted a win for Obama nearly a week in advance, based on opinion polls of Swazi locals.
Living abroad has given me a new love and respect for the American democracy. It was moving to be a part of that process, even on the other side of the world. It seemed as if PC Swaziland unanimously supported Barack Obama (if anyone voted Republican, they were too afraid to say). One of the highlights of the evening was spending it with Americans from all parts of the country. If your home state went blue then you had to stand up while everyone applauded. If you home state went red, you'd get a pat on the back and group condolences. Barack Obama was declared the winner at 6 in the morning. We were especially amused by his mention of Americans around the world tuning in, even if they were huddled around a third-world short-wave radio. Admittedly, we were huddled around a third-world satellite TV w/ CNN.
The next day another volunteer and I were walking back to the bus rank when a car pulled up next to us w/ the window rolled down. Bracing ourselves for a marriage proposal we looked over. The driver simply waved and yelled "Yay Obama!"
Monday, November 3, 2008
the rainy season
It's spring in Swaziland! The weather is interesting, it alternates between sunny, hot, dry, with no clouds (I'm using my sunscreen, Mom) one day to overcast, humid, and still pretty warm the next. It's not exactly comfortable, but it could be so much worse. Think: Mauritania. The best part is the thunderstorms. My electricity has been out for the past 2 days because of these epic t-storms. My host family thinks it's a little odd that I like to chill on the porch and watch the lightning, they're used to it.
An interesting side note: Swaziland has more deaths by lightning strike per year than any other country. Fortunately, PC installed a lightning rod onto my little house.
These power outages are very common (once or twice a week) so my babe (that's father in siSwati, not a good looking specimen of humanity) went out and bought a generator to hook up to the main house. At least now we won't miss Generations.
Even with these it's still about 80 degrees outside, so I still walk around in jeans and a t-shirt. At least twice every cloudy day someone asks me "Why aren't you cold?" Real temperature is not important here, it's gray, therefore freezing. And to look at my Swazi friends and family on these days, you would think they were expecting a blizzard.
An interesting side note: Swaziland has more deaths by lightning strike per year than any other country. Fortunately, PC installed a lightning rod onto my little house.
These power outages are very common (once or twice a week) so my babe (that's father in siSwati, not a good looking specimen of humanity) went out and bought a generator to hook up to the main house. At least now we won't miss Generations.
Even with these it's still about 80 degrees outside, so I still walk around in jeans and a t-shirt. At least twice every cloudy day someone asks me "Why aren't you cold?" Real temperature is not important here, it's gray, therefore freezing. And to look at my Swazi friends and family on these days, you would think they were expecting a blizzard.
Saturday, September 27, 2008
adventures on transport
Since cars are few and far between in Swaziland the main forms of transportation are either bus or khumbi (a sort of van-taxi). The bus system isn't particularly organized and it is not unheard of for buses to simply not come at all. However, there are frequent arrivals and departurs so there's almost always another bus. Almost.
Yesterday I needed some groceries so I rose early to catch the 7 am bus to Nhlangano. It never came. No fear, there's an 8:30. The only problem is the 7 am bus turns around and becomes the 1:30 bus home. The 8:30 has a much quicker turn-around time and leaves town at 12 (it gets there at 11). Since an hour is not quite enough time for groceries, and lunch, and internet, and ice cream, I needed an alternate route home.
My host parents gave me detailed directions. Take the Manzini bus to Salem, get off there, and wait for the Izigi bus to take me home. It comes at 2 and 4. Simple, right? I got to Salem at 3 just in case a bus arrived early (no really, it does happen every now and again). Izigi drove by at 4:30. . . and didn't stop. Shit. Ok, I'll wait for Jika ma Jika. It doesn't go to my community, but it gets close, and I can walk. Jika's not running today. Hmmmm. . . .
Thanks to an army of good samaritans (Swazis are some of the most helpful people on Earth) I board another bus heading in the general direction of home, hoping that if I can at least get closer, someone from my village will drive by and give me a ride. Not very reassuring, but at this point, it's my best bet.
This bus is crowded so I'm standing, smooshed in w/ 5 of my new closest friends. A slightly intoxicated old man tries to cop a feel, and the cop standing next to me (off-duty) slaps him for me. It's getting dark and I'm starting to think that this is a stupid idea. Just as I'm about to call the Peace Corps office to come rescue me, my phone rings.
"Hi Beth, where exactly are you going?" Huh? Who is this, and how do you know I'm lost? It turns out to be Alexis, a Group 5 volunteer who is sitting in the back of the bus. I explain the situation, and she informs me that my chances are slim to none of getting home on time. Graciously, she offers to let me crash at her place. It was a fabulous evening of wine and popcorn.
This morning I managed to hop a khumbi from Alexis's back to Nhlangano, where I now sit writing this. The moral of the story: Thank goodness for Group 5, and I miss driving.
Yesterday I needed some groceries so I rose early to catch the 7 am bus to Nhlangano. It never came. No fear, there's an 8:30. The only problem is the 7 am bus turns around and becomes the 1:30 bus home. The 8:30 has a much quicker turn-around time and leaves town at 12 (it gets there at 11). Since an hour is not quite enough time for groceries, and lunch, and internet, and ice cream, I needed an alternate route home.
My host parents gave me detailed directions. Take the Manzini bus to Salem, get off there, and wait for the Izigi bus to take me home. It comes at 2 and 4. Simple, right? I got to Salem at 3 just in case a bus arrived early (no really, it does happen every now and again). Izigi drove by at 4:30. . . and didn't stop. Shit. Ok, I'll wait for Jika ma Jika. It doesn't go to my community, but it gets close, and I can walk. Jika's not running today. Hmmmm. . . .
Thanks to an army of good samaritans (Swazis are some of the most helpful people on Earth) I board another bus heading in the general direction of home, hoping that if I can at least get closer, someone from my village will drive by and give me a ride. Not very reassuring, but at this point, it's my best bet.
This bus is crowded so I'm standing, smooshed in w/ 5 of my new closest friends. A slightly intoxicated old man tries to cop a feel, and the cop standing next to me (off-duty) slaps him for me. It's getting dark and I'm starting to think that this is a stupid idea. Just as I'm about to call the Peace Corps office to come rescue me, my phone rings.
"Hi Beth, where exactly are you going?" Huh? Who is this, and how do you know I'm lost? It turns out to be Alexis, a Group 5 volunteer who is sitting in the back of the bus. I explain the situation, and she informs me that my chances are slim to none of getting home on time. Graciously, she offers to let me crash at her place. It was a fabulous evening of wine and popcorn.
This morning I managed to hop a khumbi from Alexis's back to Nhlangano, where I now sit writing this. The moral of the story: Thank goodness for Group 5, and I miss driving.
Saturday, September 13, 2008
Just a little homesick
The weirdest things seem to trigger homesickness:
Evergreen trees
Rain and fog
Bryan Adams, Summer of '69
French fries
the Delta force movies
Evergreen trees
Rain and fog
Bryan Adams, Summer of '69
French fries
the Delta force movies
Africa is beating the crap out of me
I think it's just the lifestyle, but I'm amazed at how banged up I've managed to become. Right now I'm sporting a sprained ankle, skinned knee, skinned elbow, really gnarly cut on one hand, a small burn, scars on both legs, and this huge bruise on one heel. Granted, about half of that is the result of a spectacular fall down my mountain. I partially blame the barbed wire. If you have to crawl through barbed wire to get everywhere, you're gonna pay. I also maintain that the soil erosion here makes it easier to slip (ok, that's bullshit, but it's my story and I'm sticking to it).
Besides beating myself up one scrape at a time, I'm concerned about what sort of amusements I'm coming up with to pass the time. This morning I managed to sneak up on a chicken. I clucked at him and, wow, that was one scared chicken. I haven't laughed so hard in I don't know when. Yup, I'm losing it.
Besides beating myself up one scrape at a time, I'm concerned about what sort of amusements I'm coming up with to pass the time. This morning I managed to sneak up on a chicken. I clucked at him and, wow, that was one scared chicken. I haven't laughed so hard in I don't know when. Yup, I'm losing it.
Beth Parker: Playing Nicely w/ Others since 1986
So as of August 28th I am no longer a trainee, I'm an official Peace Corps Volunteer. There was a ceremony at the embassy in Mbabane (I wore a hot red dress) and we got to meet the king's first wife, Her Majesty Inkhosikati La-Matsebula. It was wonderful to spend a few days in the capital. We had the chance to purchase some household items for our new homes. More importantly, we got milkshakes and cheeseburgers. I may not have been a huge fan of KFC in the United States, but I love it here. Our final night in the village of Khiza consisted of a wonderful send-off party by our host mothers. There was even chocolate cake!
Early on the 29th we, with our massive amounts of luggage, were divided into groups and driven to our permanent sites. It's a little daunting to be left all by yourself in an unfamiliar place, with a family that is still relatively new to you. The next 3 months are what we call integration. This means, I'm supposed to be integrating into my community (!). I'm allowed to work, but I can't start any major projects until after in-service training at the end of November.
The past 2 weeks I have spend familiarizing myself w/ the village of Phobane. I work with a great Swazi dude named Bongani, (my official Peace Corps-assigned counterpart). We've visited the clinic, homesteads, community leaders, NGOs, and all sorts of stuff. School is starting this week so we will be dropping in on the high school to see what sort of assistance they might need from a Peace Corps volunteer.
My new host family is incredible. Make and Babe Ndwandwe are really young (Make is 23) so they don't actually try to "parent" me, which is such a relief. I also have a feisty sister, Lindiwe (age 16) who's been adopted by the Ndwandwes. We all watch Generations together.
I'm still adjusting to Swazi culture. What amazes me is how short the Swazi grapevine is. I've been introduced to people in the community who will tell me "Ah! I hear you went to the store yesterday." Clearly, I'm being watched. Yesterday, I saw my closest PCV neighbors (Hillary and Jay Jackson, 2 villages and 1 mountain over) at the opening of our new youth center. The first words out of Hillary's mouth were "So I hear you hurt your ankle?" Peace Corps is not kidding about living in a fishbowl!
Early on the 29th we, with our massive amounts of luggage, were divided into groups and driven to our permanent sites. It's a little daunting to be left all by yourself in an unfamiliar place, with a family that is still relatively new to you. The next 3 months are what we call integration. This means, I'm supposed to be integrating into my community (!). I'm allowed to work, but I can't start any major projects until after in-service training at the end of November.
The past 2 weeks I have spend familiarizing myself w/ the village of Phobane. I work with a great Swazi dude named Bongani, (my official Peace Corps-assigned counterpart). We've visited the clinic, homesteads, community leaders, NGOs, and all sorts of stuff. School is starting this week so we will be dropping in on the high school to see what sort of assistance they might need from a Peace Corps volunteer.
My new host family is incredible. Make and Babe Ndwandwe are really young (Make is 23) so they don't actually try to "parent" me, which is such a relief. I also have a feisty sister, Lindiwe (age 16) who's been adopted by the Ndwandwes. We all watch Generations together.
I'm still adjusting to Swazi culture. What amazes me is how short the Swazi grapevine is. I've been introduced to people in the community who will tell me "Ah! I hear you went to the store yesterday." Clearly, I'm being watched. Yesterday, I saw my closest PCV neighbors (Hillary and Jay Jackson, 2 villages and 1 mountain over) at the opening of our new youth center. The first words out of Hillary's mouth were "So I hear you hurt your ankle?" Peace Corps is not kidding about living in a fishbowl!
Saturday, August 9, 2008
A note to Matt Hunsinger-McConnell
Swazi food.
I'm sorry to say, I'm not such a fan. Most Swazi meals consist of 2 starches, usually rice and pap (pap is corn meal mixed w/ water), gravy, and a sort-of vegetable. I say sort of because Swazis have a serious aversion to raw vegetables. My bhuti was disgusted to watch me eat a bell-pepper without cooking it. And they don't just cook their vegetables, the boil them for upwards of an hour. I'm convinced there is no fiber left in any of the cabbage or spinach I've eaten. The only time I've seen them eat uncooked vegetables they were covered in mayonnaise.
The most important part of the Swazi diet is meat. As one of our training coordinators said "In Swaziland, a party is not a party unless there is meat." A meal without it, is just not worth eating.
I tried to introduce my family to spaghetti and American-style salad (you know, with salad dressing). It was an unqualified disaster. I had to bake cupcakes to make up for it.
There are a few food items where I see eye to eye with the Swazis. Emafat cakes are like Swazi donuts, only there's no glaze. They make a tasty breakfast. And Swazis are crazy about salt and sugar. They love candy and dump salt on their food. Megan can tell you I'm prone to both of these vices.
I'm sorry to say, I'm not such a fan. Most Swazi meals consist of 2 starches, usually rice and pap (pap is corn meal mixed w/ water), gravy, and a sort-of vegetable. I say sort of because Swazis have a serious aversion to raw vegetables. My bhuti was disgusted to watch me eat a bell-pepper without cooking it. And they don't just cook their vegetables, the boil them for upwards of an hour. I'm convinced there is no fiber left in any of the cabbage or spinach I've eaten. The only time I've seen them eat uncooked vegetables they were covered in mayonnaise.
The most important part of the Swazi diet is meat. As one of our training coordinators said "In Swaziland, a party is not a party unless there is meat." A meal without it, is just not worth eating.
I tried to introduce my family to spaghetti and American-style salad (you know, with salad dressing). It was an unqualified disaster. I had to bake cupcakes to make up for it.
There are a few food items where I see eye to eye with the Swazis. Emafat cakes are like Swazi donuts, only there's no glaze. They make a tasty breakfast. And Swazis are crazy about salt and sugar. They love candy and dump salt on their food. Megan can tell you I'm prone to both of these vices.
Friday, August 8, 2008
Life in the village of Khiza
Some quick SiSwati:
Make (mah-gay): mother, ma'am, Mrs., woman
Babe (bah-bay): father, sir, Mr., man
bhuti (booty): brother, young sir, boy
sisi (see-see): sister, Ms., girl
So I've been staying in Khiza (which means rain in SiSwati) for a little over a month now. I live with the Shabangu family, which means that I am now a member of the Shabangu clan. My host-parents gave the Swazi name Vumile. They are a pretty traditional Swazi family. Babe is a firefighter in Nhlangano and Make keeps the home running. I have 2 bhutis, Mgceni is 13 and Mlondi is 4. I also have one sisi, Sindi, who's 8. Lately the 3 kids favorite form of entertainment is to sit in my hut and watch me make myself dinner. Needless to say, this is slightly awkward for me (I should mention that there is actually no word for "awkward" in the SiSwati language). We only began cooking for ourselves about 2 weeks ago. Until then, I was the best-fed volunteer the world over. Apparently it will reflect poorly on the Shabangus if I weigh less than 100 kilos. Other Swazis will assume they didn't feed me properly. I finally had to explain to my Make that American boys won't marry a chubby girl. She suggested I find a nice Swazi man instead.
Swazis are incredibly friendly people. The American taboo against touching people certainly doesn't exist here. Actually, I have been hugged by several strangers. I'm even starting to get used to it. I have even been proposed to 3 times now. So far, I'm worth 25 cows. I told the gentlemen that if he could get the cows to my father in Oregon, then we might have a deal. Apparently I'm not worth 25 cows plus shipping and handling.
Training is remarkably like junior high. I spend my day in something that looks remarkably like school, I have to be home before dark, and there are a lot of awkward moments. It's odd to go from being an adult to essentially being someone's child. Our Swazi families take their commitment to us very seriously, and consider us members of their family.
Here are some of the highlights:
4 of us were sitting at the local high school (which serves several villages north of Nhlangano) when one of the local Makes walked up, engulfed us in a bear hug, and cried out "Look! It's Khiza's girls!"
The same day I made rather an idiot of myself. I saw what appeared to be the only white student at Nsongweni High School, and pointed him out to my fellow volunteers. I began to wonder why at least 3 of them had smacked me upside the head. It turns out he was an albino. Way to go Beth.
When I received my permanent assignment my host family sat me down to explain something. My babe is concerned that my next family will try to overcharge me for water and electricity. He instructed my to call him and let him know what I was expected to pay, so he could tell me if it was fair or not. If it wasn't, he offered to drive to my new site and help me out with me water needs.
Swaziland's a hell of an adventure.
Make (mah-gay): mother, ma'am, Mrs., woman
Babe (bah-bay): father, sir, Mr., man
bhuti (booty): brother, young sir, boy
sisi (see-see): sister, Ms., girl
So I've been staying in Khiza (which means rain in SiSwati) for a little over a month now. I live with the Shabangu family, which means that I am now a member of the Shabangu clan. My host-parents gave the Swazi name Vumile. They are a pretty traditional Swazi family. Babe is a firefighter in Nhlangano and Make keeps the home running. I have 2 bhutis, Mgceni is 13 and Mlondi is 4. I also have one sisi, Sindi, who's 8. Lately the 3 kids favorite form of entertainment is to sit in my hut and watch me make myself dinner. Needless to say, this is slightly awkward for me (I should mention that there is actually no word for "awkward" in the SiSwati language). We only began cooking for ourselves about 2 weeks ago. Until then, I was the best-fed volunteer the world over. Apparently it will reflect poorly on the Shabangus if I weigh less than 100 kilos. Other Swazis will assume they didn't feed me properly. I finally had to explain to my Make that American boys won't marry a chubby girl. She suggested I find a nice Swazi man instead.
Swazis are incredibly friendly people. The American taboo against touching people certainly doesn't exist here. Actually, I have been hugged by several strangers. I'm even starting to get used to it. I have even been proposed to 3 times now. So far, I'm worth 25 cows. I told the gentlemen that if he could get the cows to my father in Oregon, then we might have a deal. Apparently I'm not worth 25 cows plus shipping and handling.
Training is remarkably like junior high. I spend my day in something that looks remarkably like school, I have to be home before dark, and there are a lot of awkward moments. It's odd to go from being an adult to essentially being someone's child. Our Swazi families take their commitment to us very seriously, and consider us members of their family.
Here are some of the highlights:
4 of us were sitting at the local high school (which serves several villages north of Nhlangano) when one of the local Makes walked up, engulfed us in a bear hug, and cried out "Look! It's Khiza's girls!"
The same day I made rather an idiot of myself. I saw what appeared to be the only white student at Nsongweni High School, and pointed him out to my fellow volunteers. I began to wonder why at least 3 of them had smacked me upside the head. It turns out he was an albino. Way to go Beth.
When I received my permanent assignment my host family sat me down to explain something. My babe is concerned that my next family will try to overcharge me for water and electricity. He instructed my to call him and let him know what I was expected to pay, so he could tell me if it was fair or not. If it wasn't, he offered to drive to my new site and help me out with me water needs.
Swaziland's a hell of an adventure.
PC/Swaziland and Pre-Service Training
All right, at last the real blogging begins. Here's some basic information on what the Peace Corps program looks like in Swaziland. We are a community health education project which means we are trying to give Swazis the tools they need to stop the HIV/AIDS crisis in their country. We were invited to serve by the Swazi government and have been here since 2002. Currently, there are about 55 volunteers serving in Swaziland. A new group arrives every year. Group 6 is the largest group of volunteers so far.
Until the end of August we will still in Pre-Service Training. In Peace Corps, you spend 8 - 12 weeks training for your volunteer position. Swaziland PST lasts for 9 weeks. We are learning basic SiSwati, Swazi culture, and receiving technical information on completing our jobs once we arrive at site. The 36 volunteers are staying in 3 different villages near Nhlangano is Southern Swaziland. I, and 10 others, are staying in Khiza. We live with host families during training and will receive a new family for the duration of our service.
We just received our assignments for the next 2 years. I will be serving in Phobane, which is a village near Hlatikulu in Swaziland's Shisselweni region. Today I am leaving for On-the-job-training (OJT) where I'll visit Phobane and get to know my new home.
Until the end of August we will still in Pre-Service Training. In Peace Corps, you spend 8 - 12 weeks training for your volunteer position. Swaziland PST lasts for 9 weeks. We are learning basic SiSwati, Swazi culture, and receiving technical information on completing our jobs once we arrive at site. The 36 volunteers are staying in 3 different villages near Nhlangano is Southern Swaziland. I, and 10 others, are staying in Khiza. We live with host families during training and will receive a new family for the duration of our service.
We just received our assignments for the next 2 years. I will be serving in Phobane, which is a village near Hlatikulu in Swaziland's Shisselweni region. Today I am leaving for On-the-job-training (OJT) where I'll visit Phobane and get to know my new home.
Tuesday, June 24, 2008
the Northwest Army
Today is the end of staging, Peace Corps's 12 hour pre-departure orientation. I have spent the past two days bonding with my fellow PCVs. It's a little surreal to know that I will be close to all of these people, but we're not there yet. They're fun and friendly, and I think we'll be a great group. I had been concerned that I'd be the only west coast kid on the team. The best coast is extremely well represented. While Oregon is statistically about 1% of the U.S. population, 5 out of 36 volunteers in my group are Oregonians. Another 3 are from Washington state. Way to represent Pacific Northwest!
This is our last night in the U.S. Tomorrow we are taking a bus to New York and then an 18 hour flight to Johanesburg. We made sure to get our last taste of Thai food, since there isn't any in Swaziland. Good night America, I'm off to Africa!
This is our last night in the U.S. Tomorrow we are taking a bus to New York and then an 18 hour flight to Johanesburg. We made sure to get our last taste of Thai food, since there isn't any in Swaziland. Good night America, I'm off to Africa!
Thursday, June 19, 2008
no, I'm not going to Switzerland
These are my final few days left in Oregon. On the 22 I will fly to Philadelphia for Staging, which is PC jargon for a 3-day orientation stateside. According to current volunteers I should be spending this time eating as much Thai and Mexican food as possible. Check.
Since I just graduated from college (3 days ago) I've been spending a lot of time answering the inevitable "what are you going to do now?" question. It's kind of nice to have a really cool answer. In fact, I've never gotten so much attention at parties as when I mention I'm going into the Peace Corps. Well, that pudding wrestling stunt got me a lot of notice too.
The first thing I've noticed is that not too many people know where Swaziland is off the top of their heads. Most people think I'm going to Switzerland (to guard the banks? chocolate?). Once I explain that it's in Africa, that ignites some new questions. So here goes,
Yes, I am excited. This might be the biggest adventure I have in my whole life, and I'm beyond thrilled to begin it. Yes, I am scared. I am going to a very foreign country without a single person I know, or have even met before. In fact, Swaziland is as far away from home as I can get without being in the middle of the Indian Ocean. Nearly half of all Swazis have HIV or AIDS and this amount of devastation terrifies me. I'm also quite worried that the other volunteers won't like me. And yes, it will be hard to leave for two years. The decision to just up and leave my family for that long feels callous, and I still haven't gotten used to it. I anticipate making a rather embarrassing scene at the airport on Sunday. Even though I know I can home early, I don't really think this is an option for me. I made a commitment to my country, Swaziland, and the United States Peace Corps. I believe in commitment, and if I am at all able, I will remain for the whole two years.
all right. . . back to the packing.
Since I just graduated from college (3 days ago) I've been spending a lot of time answering the inevitable "what are you going to do now?" question. It's kind of nice to have a really cool answer. In fact, I've never gotten so much attention at parties as when I mention I'm going into the Peace Corps. Well, that pudding wrestling stunt got me a lot of notice too.
The first thing I've noticed is that not too many people know where Swaziland is off the top of their heads. Most people think I'm going to Switzerland (to guard the banks? chocolate?). Once I explain that it's in Africa, that ignites some new questions. So here goes,
Yes, I am excited. This might be the biggest adventure I have in my whole life, and I'm beyond thrilled to begin it. Yes, I am scared. I am going to a very foreign country without a single person I know, or have even met before. In fact, Swaziland is as far away from home as I can get without being in the middle of the Indian Ocean. Nearly half of all Swazis have HIV or AIDS and this amount of devastation terrifies me. I'm also quite worried that the other volunteers won't like me. And yes, it will be hard to leave for two years. The decision to just up and leave my family for that long feels callous, and I still haven't gotten used to it. I anticipate making a rather embarrassing scene at the airport on Sunday. Even though I know I can home early, I don't really think this is an option for me. I made a commitment to my country, Swaziland, and the United States Peace Corps. I believe in commitment, and if I am at all able, I will remain for the whole two years.
all right. . . back to the packing.
Tuesday, June 10, 2008
Some fun facts about Swaziland and the Peace Corps
Swaziland is the smallest country in Africa. It has slightly more than a million people in a land mass the size of New Jersey. It was the world's last absolute monarchy. There is now a constitution and some democratic representation, but most of the power rests in the hands of King Mswati III.
Some statistics disagree but according to UNICEF about 42% of Swaziland's adults are infected with HIV/AIDS. This is the highest infection rate in the world. Their life expectancy has been estimated to be as low as 27. That is only 5 years older then me.
The official language of government is English, but most people speak SiSwati. SiSwati is related to other Bantu languages such as Zulu. I will be learning to speak SiSwati.
The Peace Corps was establised in 1961 by President Kennedy. We are a branch of the Federal Government, and part of the United States foreign aid. A Peace Corps stint is 27 months long, 3 for training, and then 2 years of service. Volunteers work in various sectors such as education, health, environment, business, technology, and agriculture.
Currently, there are a little over 8,000 volunteers in 74 countries around the world.
Some statistics disagree but according to UNICEF about 42% of Swaziland's adults are infected with HIV/AIDS. This is the highest infection rate in the world. Their life expectancy has been estimated to be as low as 27. That is only 5 years older then me.
The official language of government is English, but most people speak SiSwati. SiSwati is related to other Bantu languages such as Zulu. I will be learning to speak SiSwati.
The Peace Corps was establised in 1961 by President Kennedy. We are a branch of the Federal Government, and part of the United States foreign aid. A Peace Corps stint is 27 months long, 3 for training, and then 2 years of service. Volunteers work in various sectors such as education, health, environment, business, technology, and agriculture.
Currently, there are a little over 8,000 volunteers in 74 countries around the world.
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